The 'King of Soca' Machel Montano’s guide to Trinidad and Tobago

Annie Daly
Neil Berment Machel Montano (Credit: Neil Berment)Neil Berment
(Credit: Neil Berment)

Soca musician Machel Montano shares his recs for enjoying his home nation during Carnival season and beyond.

Trinidad and Tobago, a twin-island nation in the southern Caribbean renowned for its annual Carnival celebration (3-4 March 2025), has far more to offer visitors than just massive parades.

The birthplace of soca (a musical genre blending calypso, African, Caribbean and South Asian rhythms), Trinidad and Tobago stuns with its incredible beaches, lush rainforests and diverse wildlife. But despite the islands' dynamic music and festival culture, locals' favourite pastime is liming – simply hanging out.

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Machel Montano is a Trinidadian musician whose fans have dubbed him the "King of Soca”. His new album, One Degree Hotter, dropped on 25 February 2025, coming on the heels of his January 2025 performance on NPR’s Tiny Desk, where he made history as the first soca musician to take the stage. He has sold out multiple shows at New York City’s Madison Square Garden and Barclays Center.

We asked Trinidadian native and "King of Soca" Machel Montano for the best ways to lime on his home islands. "We are an island country of party and style," says the award-winning singer, songwriter, producer and actor. "We celebrate through struggles and strife and especially celebrate our joys. Everything is a reason to come together."

No matter which island you’re on (it’s about a three-hour ferry ride between the two), you can expect to feel a lively spirit. "Trinidad and Tobago are two pieces of one puzzle but they give you different experiences… so you get the best of both worlds," says Montano. "Trinidad is where you come to experience the Carnival culture and steelpan orchestras, while Tobago, with its blue water, white-sand beaches and relaxed attitude, is somewhere you can chill and unwind."

Local island culture reflects the country's history of colonisation. "Our style developed through the cultural influences of Spanish, English, French, Dutch, Caribbean, African and Indo-Trinidadian communities interacting with each other over time… we really blur the lines of culture," Montano says. "We are a 'douglarised’ nation, meaning we’re a true mix of African and Indian cultures. We don’t just live side by side; we share our food, fashion, music and traditions."

Here are Montano's favourite ways to experience Trinidad and Tobago.

Getty Images For some of the best home cooking in Trinidad and Tobago, Montano loves hitting the food stalls at the Breakfast Shed (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images
For some of the best home cooking in Trinidad and Tobago, Montano loves hitting the food stalls at the Breakfast Shed (Credit: Getty Images)

1. Best culinary experience: Street food and the Breakfast Shed  

For Montano, the best food in Trinidad and Tobago is found in the streets.

Tip:

"Hire a friendly driver to take you around for your whole stay," says Montano. "When you’re liming, you never know how long you’re going to be in one place. The driver can always drop you off and wait around and spin back… they’ll take care of you. And they know all the best places to go." To make it happen, "Just ask one of the regular taxi drivers, 'Hey, can you be our driver for our stay?’," advises Montano. "Most of the time, you can find somebody here to do that." 

"Our most famous street food, doubles [curried chickpeas served on two fried flatbreads, topped with condiments like mango chutney and tamarind sauce], is available on nearly every corner. It’s a food that [harks back to] our cultural roots. It’s affordable, tasty and something we're known for internationally." His pro tip: find a vendor selling fresh coconut water, as locals do. "Coconut water is the perfect pairing with any meal!"

When pressed to name a sit-down dining experience, Montano cites the Breakfast Shed: "You know when you’re looking for good food, you’re always looking for your grandmother’s cooking? We call it the Breakfast Shed, but it’s not really a shed. It’s what you would call a modern-day food hall. They cook only local dishes with what we like to call a 'sweet hand'; this means they use the best seasonings. Everything is so tasty."

Montano recommends ordering the callaloo, which is a popular Sunday dish in Trinidad and Tobago. "[It's] a mixture of bushes [dasheen bush, also known as taro leaves] with okra and spinach and all these different things in there." He also recommends trying traditional stews, curries, pies or plant-based ingredients like pigeon peas: "We call those plant-based dishes 'ground food'. Healthy food."

Montano especially loves people watching at the Breakfast Shed: "There are a lot of people from every walk of life, from salespeople to shopkeepers to students. Everyone is always rolling up to the Breakfast Shed." 

Address: JFXP+M8M, Wrightson Rd, Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago

Getty Images Panyards are a communal rehearsal space for local steelpan bands, and music-loving visitors can drop by any time (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images
Panyards are a communal rehearsal space for local steelpan bands, and music-loving visitors can drop by any time (Credit: Getty Images)

2. Best for live music: Kafe Blue and any panyard

Music is a way of life in Trinidad and Tobago, whether you're catching a live soca performance or simply hanging out at a dive bar. Montano enjoys visiting Kafe Blue, a calypso jazz cafe in Port of Spain, also known as Kaiso Blues Café. "It’s owned by one of our favourite musicians, Carl Jacobs, who was one of the biggest producers and singers in Trinidad and Tobago when I was growing up," he says. "You can see some of the greatest musicians in Trinidad… people like Leston Paul, a great jazz musician. You can also see calypso and reggae there, and pop music and even gospel music… It's a nice place to hang out with people and chat."

Another classic musical experience is visiting a panyard, a communal rehearsal space for steelpan bands. "Even though pan music [music played on the steelpan] is associated with Carnival, travellers can also come to the islands anytime and visit a panyard," says Montano. "Some of them are not active during the year, but a lot of them are, like Renegades and All Stars and Invaders and Phase 2. You might pass and hear some calypso or some soca or even some classical music being played. You’ll hear all sorts of contemporary pop songs being played, too, because these bands tour the world." He adds: "Nowhere else in the world would you be able to walk into an orchestral rehearsal and be a part of it and have a little lime."

Address: MF3J+JPQ, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago

Phone number: (868) 477-2262

Instagram: @kafeblue.tt

Getty Images In a nation renowned for its spectacular beaches, Maracas Bay provides a tropical escape (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images
In a nation renowned for its spectacular beaches, Maracas Bay provides a tropical escape (Credit: Getty Images)

3. Best beach: Maracas Beach

Trinidad and Tobago is famous for its lush beaches, like Montano's pick; Maracas Beach, a tropical escape on Trinidad's north coast, about a 45-minute drive from Port of Spain through the leafy green Santa Cruz mountains; found in Maracas Bay.

Experience both islands

"This is a very important tip!" says Montano. "The two islands are diagonal experiences. Trinidad is the hustle and bustle of the nation, and Tobago is where you kick back and relax." He recommends checking out Store Bay (a popular beach known for its turquoise waters and food vendors), and Nylon Pool (a crystal-clear lagoon in the middle of the sea) while you’re in Tobago. "And be sure to eat some of that local cuisine while you’re at Store Bay," he says.

"It's surrounded by beautiful mountains and the breeze is cool, so it brings serenity to a lot of people," Montano says. "The people watching is always a delight as well… people are always having fun there."

He also notes that it's one of the most popular spots on the islands to get bake and shark, an iconic Trinidadian street food sandwich made from fried shark and fried bread and topped with condiments ranging from cucumbers to pineapple to "special things" like shado beni ("like a cilantro sauce", Montano explains). There are multiple places to get it, Montano says, including Richard's Bake & Shark and Patsy's Bake & Shark. Just be sure to top it with whatever speaks to you most. "Everyone has their own way of doing it," says Montano. "It’s all about your personal preference." 

Alamy The Northern Range covers about 25% of the entire island of Trinidad (Credit: Alamy)Alamy
The Northern Range covers about 25% of the entire island of Trinidad (Credit: Alamy)

4. Best for a nature adventure: the Northern Range

Hitting the beach isn’t the only way to commune with nature in Trinidad and Tobago. Montano recommends spending time in the Northern Range; a lush string of mountains running throughout northern Trinidad that covers about 25% of the entire island.

"There are amazing forest reserves, hiking trails and waterfalls there that offer a peaceful yet breathtaking experience," says Montano, who suggests paying close attention to the birds. There are more than 430 different species of birds in the Northern Range, not to mention more than 100 species of mammals including red howler monkeys, ocelots, and deer. “The Northern Range is really ideal for nature lovers," says Montano.

Getty Images Brian Lara Promenade offers prime people watching – and a true glimpse of everyday Trinidadian life (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images
Brian Lara Promenade offers prime people watching – and a true glimpse of everyday Trinidadian life (Credit: Getty Images)

5. Best for feeling the rhythm of everyday life: Brian Lara Promenade

Also known as Independence Square, the street vendor- and busker-lined Brian Lara Promenade runs through Port of Spain’s downtown area and is a fun spot to sit and people watch. "It’s named after one of our most famous cricketers and is always buzzing with people," says Montano.

Once you’ve absorbed the rhythms of Trinidadian life, Montano suggests strolling to Queen’s Park Savannah, a 260-acre urban park. "You’ll see lots of joggers, food vendors and the 'Magnificent Seven' [a group of seven colonial mansions]," Montano says. "[It's] a great mix of daily life and cultural heritage."

Getty Images Carnival is Trinidad and Tobago's most famous – and colourful – cultural festival (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images
Carnival is Trinidad and Tobago's most famous – and colourful – cultural festival (Credit: Getty Images)

6. Best cultural experience: Carnival

Carnival is "the heart and soul of our culture", says Montano, so make it a point to visit while it's happening – traditionally the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. "Visitors can play mas (join in with a costume), meet incredible people, taste authentic local foods and immerse themselves in music and dance. It’s a full spectrum of art, expression and unity that showcases the creativity of our people."

To make the most of Carnival, Montano suggests heading to Trinidad and Tobago one week before the big celebrations and making sure to wear festive attire. "The parties start the [week] before Carnival Monday, and continue every night right into J’ouvert," he explains. Known as the kick-off to Carnival, J’ouvert is a lively celebration that begins before sunrise on Carnival Monday morning in which partygoers dance through the streets covered in paint and mud and other substances. To do it right, wear clothes you don’t mind ruining, advises Montano. "It’s the most fun to be dabbed in paint and powder and sometimes even chocolate," he says. "Then you go home around 06:00 or 07:00, take a shower, take some rest and get back out on the road for what we call 'Monday Wear', which is when you usually wear a designer swimsuit and a little bit of your Tuesday costume."

On Tuesday, revellers dress up "proper" with feathers, beads and other "fancy-looking, bright-looking, colourful-looking costumes," says Montano. Whatever you do, he advises, be wary of heels. "You want to wear flats, because it’s all about jumping and waving and dancing. And having fun." 

BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.

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